A timely post,
Have been looking at the GPS issue from a different angle this week - improve the hardware in the camera for better accuracy even in harsh environments removing the need for any post capture additional work.
Watch this demonstration of one of the latest chips.
Centimetre accuracy.
Jump to 3:45 for the start of the demo.
Enjoy
@JimGayes360 great find with that video.
I’ve heard a lot of people running Street View cameras on top of these cars using these chips (where you have the advantage of powering the system using the car).
Seems like a fun weekend project to build a complete receiver: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/gps-rtk2-hookup-guide/all
Were you thinking of buying one of these chips or a full receiver kit @JimGayes360 for GSV work?
I’m still not sure of how I’d power the system (safely and consistently) when on the move. Any advice would be welcomed 
Just doing some initial research on how it might be possible to improve GSV captures for better accuracy and been reading up on what might be involved.
As you know canopy cover, bridges and tunnels are the enemy for accurate GPS location.
For GSV video mode captures it’s not possible to do anything in post I don’t think? (Software is not my specialty) So to my way of thinking it would be easier to make highly accurate captures in the first place.
With a high quality GNSS solution attached to the camera you would also be able to capture individual timelapse captured panos as well as video mode.
I’d seen the Sparkfun board and a few similar products but I’d not come across the setup link that you shared, so will read with great interest later.
Getting it to work with the camera maybe a hurdle and needs further investigation.
Your question about powering the unit I think can be answered quite easily - Power bank battery.
Reading this part of the article -
A 3.3V regulator is provided to regulate the 5V USB down to 3.3V the module requires. External 5V can be applied or a direct feed of 3.3V can be provided. Note that if you’re provide the board with 3.3V directly it should be a clean supply with minimal noise (less than 50mV VPP ripple is ideal for precision locating).
The 3.3V regulator is capable of sourcing 600mA from a 5V input and the USB C connection is capable of sourcing 2A.
I have a 20,000Mah battery on my backpack already to power my camera and phone on long captures.
Powering this module alone - 20,000/600 = 33.3 hours, so shouldn’t be an issue.
Hey Jim,
There is a brilliant person - SviMik who has connected the f9p to a Kandao Qoocam 8k using the audio input. Its a pretty sophisticated setup but you likely understand hardware better than I.
I shared the link to this discussion with him so hope he may chime in.
All the best.
B